Climbing Half Dome

I climbed to the top of half dome with two of my friends in August of 2020. This post captures my best tips on what to expect and how to prepare. 

Half Dome

Half dome, Yosemite’s most iconic symbol, rises to 8,800 feet above sea level, or nearly 5,000 feet above Yosemite Valley. Until 1875, Half Dome was deemed inaccessible by man and even today considered the most strenuous and most dangerous day hike in all of the U.S. national parks. 

Why climb it do you ask? The hike requires excellent physical and mental strength, and aside from the sense of accomplishment of reaching new heights, you will get to see some magnificent Yosemite views along the way and from the very top of course. It is worth it! The last 400 feet to the summit involve climbing using two metal cables. This very last part is not recommended to anyone with fear of heights. The cables are typically up before Memorial Day and come down in Mid October, so that effectively limits when you can go.

Half dome, as seen from Glacier Point

Obtaining a permit

In 2010, the park introduced a permit system to reduce crowding, and improve safety. The park now limits the number of visitors who can climb past the subdome to 225 day hikers per day. Permits are available through a lottery in March, with a small number of tickets available two-days in advance. To increase your chances of getting a permit, submit an application for each member of your group who is planning to climb, but note, the applicant must actually climb with the group for the permit to be valid, and permits are non-transferable. Weekend days are most popular, and harder to get, so go for a mix of weekend and weekday dates to increase your chances. Climbing in the summer increases the chances of good weather, and allows you to enjoy the longer days, but the temperatures will also be higher, making the hike more difficult.

Accommodation

I would recommend reserving at least two nights in Yosemite Valley for the trip. Most day hikers start the hike a little bit before dawn (5am), so best to sleep in Yosemite Valley the night before the hike. This will also help your body to better acclimate to to the height (Yosemite Valley is at 5,000 feet). Note that after the hike you will be tired so better to take another night in Yosemite or in closely located camp/hotel to minimize driving.

What to expect along the trail?



When to start?

Most people require 12-14 hours to hike Half Dome in one day, so it'e best to start the hike at dawn, or right before, to avoid getting into the dark. We woke up at 4:15am, parked our car at the trailhead parking, and started the hike at 5am. We did the first 40 minutes or so in the dark with flashlights, and embraced the complete silence on the trail. When the sun rose above the valley we were at the top of Vernal falls, enjoying the beautiful scenery. Later in the day, we met people that started the hike at 12:30am to reach the Half Dome at Sunrise but I personally wouldn't recommend that. The hike itself is beautiful and doing it in complete darkness is more dangerous, and misses the point in my opinion.

The Mist trail

The hike begins along the beautiful Mist trail which follows the Merced River up to the top of Vernal falls, climbing hundred of stairs along the way. Climbing the steps can be slippery so mind your step when climbing in the dark.



From there you will continue on another steep section of stairs to get to the top of the Nevada falls.


The waterfalls are flowing in full capacity in the spring, but start to shrink later in the summer months.

Little Yosemite Valley

This part of the trail beyond Nevada falls merges with the John Muir Trail, and is sandy and exposed to the sun for the most part. This relatively flat section of the trail, along the Merced river, provides an opportunity to catch your breath. If you are planning on filtering water, the Merced River in this part of the trail is your last opportunity to do so. After about 3 hours of hike/climb we took a short break here, ate a breakfast snack and refilled our water bottles in the Merced. 



Once you go past Little Yosemite Valley you are going to start a 2 hours ascent to the subdome. Along the way you will start seeing Half Dome from the distance, hinting how much more you have to go. This part of the trail is in a shaded woody area for the most part. As you climb, you will go past the half elevation point, and after about 1 mile depart from the John Muir Trail to continue all the way up to the subdome on the Half Dome Trail.



Climbing the subdome

Once you get the top of the tree line, you will see the subdome and Half Dome standing just behind it. Keep going in this flat part until you get to the base of the subdome and the permit check area. Make sure you have your printed permit and and ID card. This area is high and exposed. For your safety, if it's raining, or if there is a storm coming, you would want to head back.


Past the permit area starts a steep part of hundreds of granite steps to get to the top of the subdome and the cables. This part takes about 30 minutes and is fairly strenuous.


The Cables

After climbing in steep elevation for 5-6 hours, making it to the cables is an achievement by itself. The cables however are what the Half Dome trail is known for, and is the most scary part of the hike. The cables is also the dangerous part of the hike, where a few accidents happened in recent years. Climbers have fallen to their death in this part and some have sustained serious injuries. Make sure to follow all safety rules, climb slowly, and be patient with other climbers around you. Most importantly, never climb this part in wet conditions or if rains appears to be on the way. The granite rock is already very slippery and becomes even more so when wet. 

Prior to climbing, i've read some people get to the subdome and decide not to do the cables part. I have to admit, I wasn't sure I was going to do the cables either, and mentally prepared myself that I will not climb the cables if I won't feel comfortable, or if I feel this won't be a responsible thing to do (after all I have my wife and three little ones at home). The majority of people we've seen on our hike, went all the way up, but most of the people we've seen were also in their 20's or 30's. While I was confident in my ability to climb it physically, I didn't like the feeling of my life dependent on people above me climbing it safely, and not falling down. Some risks in lives (like driving in a car) are not fully dependent on your behavior, and that is something you need to get comfortable with. I can truly say the 360 views from the very top are magnificent and unique, and are definitely worth climbing the last 400ft, but know your limits - if you are tired or don't feel comfortable it is better to head back.

Sitting at the base of the cables, I took some time to rest, drink water, get a bit of energy in, make sure there are no loose items in my pockets, and use the natural restrooms (no natural restrooms at the very top). I observed the people climbing up and down, and prepared mentally for this very last part. I knew I have to be 100% focused, as the cost of a mistake could be very high. After 6 hours of strenuous hike in high elevation this is not trivial. Seeing other people climb slowly and get down safely reassured me, and I decided to take the plunge and do it, after all, you only live once :-)



We started the cables part at around 11am, and it took us about 25-30 minutes to get to the top from there. The granite rock is at 46 degrees incline, and is very slick, making hiking shoes with good grip and good gloves a must have. Because the rock is very slippery you can't just walk it with your feet and have to use your hands and upper body strength to pull yourself up every single step. With us on the cables there were about 20 or so more people at the same time, but everyone was very patient and respectful. The cable part is divided into 30 or so 10 feet segments, with wooden poles between them. These wooden poles provide an opportunity to take a deep breath, rest for a minute, and let other people who are going down go past you. Because people are climbing very slowly, you often have to wait and hold. Holding the cables firm in my hand at all times, I kept focused on the next segment each time, and slowly but surely made it to the very top. I was excited and proud of myself, but also knew I still have to get down...

Views from the top

The top of half dome is pretty spacious and flat allowing for exploration, taking photos and soaking in the magnificent views. The altitude and the 360 view present a majestic view of Yosemite Valley, and the Sierra Nevada mountain chain. This moment at the very top is what you have worked so hard for. Relax, enjoy, and be very careful when taking any selfies up there.



Going down the cables

At about quarter past noon, and after 40 minutes at the top, we were ready to start our descent. Some people descend facing down, and some descend backwards with their body facing the top - you have to try it out to see what works best for you. I personally found going down with my body facing the top more convenient as it allowed me a better handle of the rock, and I didn't have to look down all the time. Going down, the rock felt even more slippery. Without having to do much, my feet were sliding down the rock every time I was slightly releasing my firm grip of the cables. Keeping my hands on the cables at all times, and controlling for my speed with my hands, I was able to slowly slide down. Now was a good time for a breath of relief and a small celebration - we made it!


I would definitely recommended getting a pair of work/garden gloves with good grip for the cables. You might have read online about a pile of gloves at the bottom of the cables, but the park is discouraging leaving gloves behind, so definitely bring your own. I used the MadGrip Pro Palm Plus Gloves which held very well.

One last thing to mention about the cables part is that some people use a harness or a Via Ferrata Kit for safety. I've seen at least 3-4 people using them on the day I climbed, and you probably want to consider those if you are climbing with younger children. I am not an expert on that equipment and can't really comment on climbing with it, but you can find many blogs and climbing guides recommending that. We were advised not to use a harness as it might get us distracted if we don't know how to use it properly which can be even more dangerous. So if you are planning to get a harness, I would recommend getting an expert advice on which kind to use, and learn how to use it safely before your hike.

Hiking back

Hiking back down takes almost the same time as getting up there, so plan accordingly to avoid getting into the dark if you are not comfortable with that. You can hike back down to Yosemite Valley on the same trail you used climbing to top. One very popular detour is to take John Muir Trail all the way down to the valley instead of the Mist trail. It adds about 2 miles to the hike, but is easier to descend. It also provides an opportunity to see the beautiful Nevada falls and Half Dome from a different view at Clark Point.

Going down the John Muir trail is easier than climbing it, but keep in mind you will be much more tired, so take it easy to avoid any injuries. We got to see some beautiful wildlife going down including deers and two bears, which was the icing on the cake.


After all this excitement we stopped for a quick swim in the Merced near Little Yosemite Camp. The water was cold and refreshing which was exactly what I needed. Great opportunity to rest, eat something, and refill your water bottles (water filter required).


Past Little Yosemite we got to see Nevada falls again, this time from the top. Going back on the John Muir Trail offered views of the falls and Half Dome which was a great closure to this hike.


Finish point

After 16 miles and 13.5 hours of hike we made it back to our cars, tired, with aching feet, but happy. This was THE most strenuous day hike I ever did, but also a thrilling adventure I will never forget. Yosemite with it's beautiful and stunning nature is my favorite national park, and this hike to the crown of Yosemite was a once in a lifetime opportunity to experience it to the fullest.

If you read thus far, thank you! I hope you found the advice useful, and the story a source of inspiration for your own trip. Feel free to ask any questions in the comments and I will do my best to answer. Be sure to also check out this video on the park website. I will end with a few tips on how to prepare and what to pack for the hike.

How to prepare?

This of course depends on your fit and physical shape, but I would highly recommend training for the hike. I will share what I consider a minimal plan that worked for me:
  • In the few months leading to the hike, hike 5-10 high elevation trails (2000+ ft). I personally hiked Mission peak in the California bay area, Lassen Peak, and a few other in our vicinity. Best to hike with the gear and shoes you plan to climb Half Dome with.
  • Get into a routine of aerobic activity 2-3 times a week (walking, running, swimming etc).
  • Strengthen your core and upper body using short daily exercises. 7 minute workout apps you can follow at home are great for that purpose.

Packing List

Here is my suggested packing list, with paid links to specific equipment I used: